Every summer, in preparation for the Jewish holiday of Sukkot, rabbis from all over the world travel to the northern part of the Calabria region in Italy to pick the best citrus fruits. For about two weeks, the orchards around the town of Santa Maria del Cedro are filled with English, Russian and Israeli rabbis.
With the help of local farmers, they inspect the trees and analyze the fruit, sometimes with a magnifying glass, in search of the perfect ones.

The oldest and most aromatic of the other citrus fruits, citrons are much less popular than lemons or oranges. They resemble large, green lemons, have more skin than pulp and a strong flavor, so they are not preferred for consumption. For these reasons, it is difficult to find them in markets or stores.

Etrogut (citros in Hebrew) are the "fruits of the most beautiful tree", perhaps even the forbidden fruits in the Garden of Eden.
Although there are many varieties of citrus around the world, a Jewish community believes that the one in Calabria, known as "Liscio Diamante", is the purest and most perfect of all.

The citrus plant arrived in this region about 2000 years ago, after the Jewish migrations. According to Helena Attlee, author of many books, citron was the only citrus fruit grown in Europe until the orange arrived 900 years later, brought to Spain by the Arab Moors. The Jews were expelled from Calabria (and all of southern Italy) in 1541, but their association with Calabrian lemon farmers continues to this day.
According to Chabad Jews, when God instructed Moses to go look for lemons to commemorate the 40 years in the desert, he sent several messengers around the world who returned with the Calabrian fruit. Since the 1960s, Rabbi Moshe Lazar, who is based in Milan, personally oversees their selection process.

According to local farmers, the warm wind from the sea meets the cold wind from the mountains and these two winds are balanced in between, creating the perfect climate for growing lemons. Their cultivation is mainly carried out in farms or small family gardens, being given a very special care. Once a citrus tree is grown and deemed healthy, the rabbis go ahead and inspect each fruit, following exact rules.
Perfect fruits should weigh around 80g, have perfectly smooth skin (no spots, lumps or parasites) and should be neither too round nor too long. The selected citrus are then boxed and packed for shipment to Israel, Europe, Russia and the USA.