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How Turkish coffee destroyed an entire empire

2022-05-14 21:57:41Lifestyle SHKRUAR NGA REDAKSIA VOX

 

How Turkish coffee destroyed an entire empire
Turkish coffee

 

It is known as Greek coffee by Greeks and Cypriots, Bosnian coffee for Bosnians, Armenian coffee for Armenians, Arabic coffee for Arabs and Turkish coffee for Turks, Croats, Albanians and Serbs. But by the middle of the 16th century, it was just kahve. At that time, these peoples were under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, which included the Kahve-lovers from Southeast Europe to Persia, in its wide embrace. But in the early years of the 19th century, the empire had begun to crumble. Kahve played a role - little known - in its subsequent decline. Coffee arrived in Turkey during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.

When the man he decided to rule Yemen encountered an energy drink known as qahwah, he brought it to the Ottoman court in Constantinople, where it had immediate success.

A palace coffee master, may have had dozens of helpers to grind Arabic coffee beans into extremely fine powder. It was then boiled in copper pots, known as coffee pots. The resulting drink - bitter, black and with a thin layer of foam on top, which was created by pouring it quickly - was served with small porcelain cups.

To balance the bitterness, legend has it that Suleiman's wife, Sultanesha Hürrem, drank her coffee with a glass of water and a plum - as it is served today in Turkey.

Not everyone, however, believed that the Qur'an allowed Muslims to drink this new stimulant drink. Although the Islamic scriptures did not specifically mention coffee, an extremist cleric in Suleiman's court issued a fatwa against drinking, arguing that the consumption of anything burnt was forbidden. But that did not stop her seduction. In 1555, two Syrian merchants established the first kahvehane in Istanbul. Very quickly, almost one in six shops in the city - from small neighborhood cafes to large community centers - served coffee. Gradually, kahve drained to the farthest corners of the empire.

How Turkish coffee destroyed an entire empire

Kafenetë u dhanë burrave një vend tjetër për t’u mbledhur përveç shtëpive, xhamive apo tregjeve, duke u siguruar një vend ku të socializoheshin, të shkëmbenin informacion, të argëtoheshin dhe të edukoheshin. Anëtarët e shkolluar të shoqërisë lexonin me zë lajmet e ditës: jeniçerët, anëtarë të një suaze elitë të trupave osmane, planifikonin akte protestash kundër sulltanit, zyrtarët diskutonin intrigat e oborrit, tregtarët shkëmbenin zëra për luftë. Dhe shumica e pashkolluar i dëgjonte.

Në kafenetë, ata prezantoheshin me idetë që do të sillnin telashe për shtetin osman: rebelim, vendosmëri dhe gabueshmëri të pushtetarit.

Nuk vonoi shumë kur autoritetet nisën ta shihnin kahvehane-n si kërcënim. Disa sulltanë vendosën spiunë në kafenë për të matur opinionin publik; të tjerë si Murati IV, një sulltan i fillim shekullit të 18-të, u përpoq t’i mbyllte të gjitha. Por sillnin shumë përfitime ekonomike. Kur lëvizjet nacionaliste nisën të zienin në tokat osmane, në shekullin e 19-të, popullariteti i kafeneve lulëzoi.

Grupet etnike në rajonet europiane të perandorisë me shumicë të krishtere ortodokse nisën të shqetësoheshin për pavarësi. Udhëheqësit nacionalistë planifikonin taktikat dhe vulosnin aleanca në kafenetë e Selanikut, Sofjes dhe Beogradit. Përpjekjet e tyre, të furnizuara me kafeinë, ia dolën me vendosjen e një Greqie të pavarur më 1821, Serbisë më 1835-ën dhe Bullgarisë më 1878-ën.

The reign of kahve had begun. Different nations added a distinctive element to the drink: the Greeks make it with resin, the Croats with cumin seeds, the Arabs mix it with cardamom and serve it in small cups without handles, called finjans.

Even when drunk plain, or whole, the taste profile depends on the baking; medium-dark grains of the Turkish variety, produce coffee with an earthy taste, smoky nuances and dense structure. When the cup dries, the fine grains wear to the bottom of the cup. The effect is immediate. Emperors of the world, beware!

* By Sarah Jilani / 1840 Magazine, part of The Economist.


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